The North Coast of NSW

It finally feels as though I am closer to the equator. But it was otherwise yesterday morning.

I departed Newcastle in Melbourne conditions - rain and 11 degrees C.  The rain and low cloud persisted for about 150kms.  Then as if riding out from under a roof, I emerged from under the distinct northern edge of the dark cloud mass to blue skies.  The temperature climbed slowly with every km north, and settled down at a pleasant 18C for the last couple of hundred kms.  I was in the big river country, home of rivers such at the Clarence, Richmond and Macleay.  The paddocks are knee deep in springy tangled grass, the western horizon a silhouette of mountain ranges shaped like nothing in Victoria, and the sweet smell of sugar cane fills the air.

Evidence that I am getting closer to the equator

One of the pleasures of travelling alone is that other travellers seem to feel entirely comfortable striking up a conversation with a solitary motorbike rider.  Take Max for example, who I met at a roadside rest area just south of Kempsey, having a cup of tea with his wife.  Max wanted to talk 'Beemers', which he apparently rode for many years.  Max proudly told me that his membership number in the Ulysses Motorbike Club was 844.  I know very little of this club, but the context suggested he was a very early member.  And so Max and I talked Beemers and others things for a while. 

Max, Ulysses Club Member # 844

Others engage in more economical forms of communication.  When passing through Sydney, I was parked in multi-lane traffic at lights and could see a big Kawasaki in my rear vision mirror.  The rider was studying the back of my bike, which includes on the top box my blog address (containing the words 'R1200GS around Australia').   When the traffic moved again, he accelerated hard and passed me in an adjacent lane.  Continuing to look straight ahead, he simply bipped his horn and gave me a thumbs up with his gloved left hand as he disappeared in the Sydney way, lane splitting, accelerating and braking hard, for some illusory time gains, or possibly just for fun.

Max recommended that I sample a pie at Fredo's pie shop at Frederickton, just north of Kempsey.  I did sample the equivalent of a party pie, which left me somewhere between indifferent and regretful.  Interestingly Fredo's boasts crocodile pies amongst its fare.

Now I am not entirely persuaded by the whole karma thing.  But it does seem to me that as I intend to wade through a few rivers up in the Gulf country checking depth before crossing on the bike, it ill-behoves me to eat the mortal remains of the deceased brethren of the verymuchalive keepers of the water holes and river crossings.  While not necessarily guaranteeing me immunity from crocattack, it just might be that in the grand  scheme of things, blessed are the croc pie rejecters.

This is serious big river country.  Photos below are possibly of the Clarence, the Macleay and the Richmond Rivers (in no particular order), or some other rivers.

Dusk arrived earlier than expected and I found myself losing daylight some 30kms south of Bangalow.  I initially concluded that I had taken too many breaks during the day which had put me behind schedule, before more astutely concluding that dusk could be deferred a little longer by changing my raybans and tinted visor for their clear counterparts.

The day ended with the GS gliding over smooth concrete roads beside wide dark rivers, the air heavy with a heady blend of  moist evening air, sugar cane sweetness and rich green grass.

The cosy environment of the snug helmet, my warm gloves, the ambient sounds softened by efficient earplugs,  the thermal layers doing their job nicely, the engine smooth and powerful, the soothing rhythm of the bike leaning and sweeping around bends as if on autopilot, powerful yet gentle G forces alternating left and right, all meant that as the target 620kms for the day approached, the only regret was that there were no more kms to ride until tomorrow.

                           

The South Coast of NSW

Nowra - the host, the chef and the musician. The excellent co-host Hiromi was at work when this photo was taken. 

Near the Shoalhaven River - cool moist air, dry roads, and strobe lighting courtesy of the morning sun angling through the trees. Pleasant roads on which to let the engine and tyres warm up.

Pretty hard to take a bad photo in this part of the world.  This is the country betwen Nowra and Kiama.


I followed Highway 1 through Sydney.   Freeways, tunnels, airliners taking off on a runway which goes over the road, tolls, E tags (required but alas not possessed), fumes and gritty air, roadworks, sandstone cuttings, split second glimpses of the harbour, taxis all over the place, the road brilliantly lit one moment and in black shade the next, convoys of trucks, narrow-laned busy roads, and the Sydney Harbour Bridge looking grimy and past its prime.  Highway 1 is not the way to see Sydney.

Then north through the scrubby national parks north of Sydney, on multi-lane highways which sweep through massive cuttings and across long span bridges.  Despite the natural bushland it traverses, this particular road environment is hostile, with  more of an industrial ambience than a natural one. So much of the natural environment as was visible from the road, seemed peripheral in every way to these busy mega-highways. 

The highways just north of Sydney are imposed unsympathetically on and through the landscape with no evident regard for it. The highways between Nowra and Kiama flow with the landscape. 

The enduring impression from today is of cool morning air, bucolic splendour, and the purring GS atop a winding ribbon of bitumen that Rossi and Stoner would enjoy.  Motorbike riding is generally perfectly on song only for a note or two at a time - such as a long corner at the right speed where everything comes together nicely.  Occasionally it is possible to link a series of corners.  But the roads and conditions south of Kiama this morning allowed kilometres of uninterrupted pleasure where flow, balance, speed and traction were all in harmony.  Cornering on a motorbike is one of life's pleasures.

The views left and right were constant variations on the themes in the photo below.  I was tempted to do a u-turn and line up for seconds (which of course would have entailed thirds if I was to continue north). But it occurred to me that my trip is long enough done once.

Cold Marlo

Saturday was a cold night in Marlo. I shared a cabin with a mosquito which was clearly planning a stealth attack after I went to sleep.  Fortunately, I had turned the heater off before going to bed. As the temperature in the cabin plummeted to zero, and possibly below, the mozzie died of cold and 'crossed over' in the early hours of the morning. 

Around 8am, after a cold short ride along the eastern bank of the Snowy River to Orbost with the temperature fluctuating between 1 & 3 degrees C we were welcomed by Tom and Joc(elyn) into their dining room, with the wood fire blazing.  The table was set for a breakfast feast being prepared in a kitchen which was every inch a classic country kitchen.

Many thanks for a magnificent breakfast Tom and Joc.
It set us up very well for the 450kms which followed.




After breakfast Mike turned right on the Princes Highway as Brendan and I turned left.  Sorry you had to go back to work Mike. 

Motorcyclists in search of straight roads would be disappointed by east Gippsland.

Brendan and I soldiered on through 3-4 hours of roads like this.





Then on through Eden

to Bendalong,

arriving as the sunset over the hills to the west of a secluded valley. 

We had company as we breakfasted on the verandah this morning.

The planned day of riding 500kms north was traded in for a Cook's tour of Bendalong (thanks Susi and Peter), a 56 km ride to Nowra (thanks for the pancakes with jam and cream Angus), and an overnight stop in Nowra (thanks for the curry Navid).  George gave us some blues, a bit of slide guitar, some banjo and 6 string - it was like meeting Xavier Rudd before anyone had heard of him.  You are a musician George.  Brendan turned left at Nowra and headed for home today.  Looking forward to a longer ride soon Brendan.

In the last two days I have caught up with some old friends, and met a new friend. This is Lily.

Where the Snowy River meets the sea

Marlo at Dusk

Departure day finally arrived. I was so excited..........just kidding.  I hope to make this a cliche-free website, at the end of the day.

The send-off breakfast was magnificent.  Thanks Liz.

Melbourne to Marlo - 450 kms of riding today  - clear, cold and calm.  Victorian winter riding perfection.

Max needed consoling because he couldn't come.

Marlo is a peaceful place.

 

Day 1 - 0900 departure.

The Short Way Round

The Barry Way, Victoria.

It has been pointed out to me by more than one person with too much time on their hands, that by going anti-clockwise around the country on the left hand side of the road, I will in fact be travelling a shorter distance than if I had chosen to travel clockwise on the left hand side of the road.  Thank you.

At this point, all you people with Arts Degrees just move along quietly please.  Nothing to see here folks.  This involves maths, beyond page numbers, birthdays and change for amounts less than $100.

The distance I have unwittingly saved is said by some to be just over 40 metres.  Something to do with pi, and  r, and maybe 2. Others say it has only to do with pi and d.  Whatever.  If you do you have a view on this matter, consider keeping it to yourself.

Jessica Watson at least had to sail around the world before controversy found her (in the form of a ridiculous allegation that she hadn't sailed around the world at all), yet here it is already, on my doorstep with the motorbike still in the backyard.

So there goes the third great name I had for the trip, 'The Long Way Round'.   The first was 'It's Not About the Bike', but of course, it is.  The second was 'Kookaburra Sits in the Old Gum Tree', but I was advised on a number of grounds to abandon this idea, not the least of which was relevance.  Further, the owners of the copyright in those words do not like sharing, even via oblique reference to the work.  I may yet be sued for going as far as I have with that idea.

But I digress, the actual purpose of this post is to provide a map in response to numerous requests for one. The blue line traces the bitumen route, and the green lines near the Gulf of Carpentaria and the Kimberley area are two dirt road options I am considering.  It will be obvious that expense has been spared in the production of this map.

If you live on the blue line, expect a visit.  If you live on a green line, god help you.

By the way, the photos on this blog are quite high resolution, and if you left click on a photo you can see a larger version of it.

So, having seen the planned route, if there are any amongst you who know of any reason why this does not constitute a ride around Australia speak now or forever hold your peace.   Actually, it's probably best for everyone if you just forever hold your peace.

The general idea and a few details

This is the 2008 model R1200GS in central Victoria, on a back track between Alexandra and Bonnie Doon.


THE ROUTE

The planned route is anticlockwise around the continent, staying mostly on the bitumen. I will head west from Cairns to Normanton. There a choice will be required between staying on major highways by riding south to Cloncurry then west to the Stuart Highway at the Three Ways near Tennant Creek, or a more direct (but undoubtedly slower) route involving some bitumen and over 600kms of dirt on the Gulf Track. 


The Gulf Track roughly parallels part of the coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and goes through Burketown, Doomadgee and Borroloola, to join the Stuart Highway at Daly Waters. That road was very recently closed even to vehicles with snorkels, due to high water levels at a number of river crossings. I will not be taking a snorkel with me. I plan to make inquiries about conditions when I get in the region and defer the dirt/bitumen decision until then. Apparently in peak season the Gulf Track is used by 3-4 vehicles a day. I have been advised that in checking the depth of any river crossings I should keep an eye out for crocs. I will have a can or two of 'CrocBeGone' in the panniers.


If I am enjoying the dirt roads, there is an option to leave the bitumen 110km past Borroloola and travel to Mataranka via Ngukurr and Roper Bar. This would involve an additional 350kms of dirt.


I will visit Darwin briefly, then back-track via Katherine to the highway down the west coast of W.A. and eventually to Perth. There is another opportunity to get off the bitumen, for 500+kms on the Gibb River Road between Kununnurra and Derby. Again, it will be a matter of assessing conditions when I arrive in the area.


Liz will fly to Broome to see me for a bit of local touring together on the bike. She is an excellent pillion passenger and we have done quite a few kms together. I will divert on the journey south to visit Ningaloo Reef.


From Perth, I will basically follow the coast to Albany. Then across to Esperance, up to Norseman and across the Nullarbor. Hoping for a tail wind on that leg.


I plan to do the few extra kms involved in visiting Port Lincoln, where Liz and I lived for three years in the late 1970s.


The last part of the journey will be to Whyalla, down to Adelaide, then on to Mt Gambier, Warrnambool, the Great Ocean Road to Apollo Bay, and home.


All up, I expect to travel about 16,000kms.



PEOPLE

For most of the trip I will be on my own. None of my riding friends were available for the whole trip. My nephew Brendan is going to join me for the first week of the ride, up to Brisbane.


On the return leg, my brother Noel plans to ride to Ceduna in S.A. to join me for the last week or so. My good friend Kym might ride to Port Lincoln or Whyalla for the leg back to Adelaide. Alan, my long time friend, is planning to ride to Mt Gambier to meet up and complete the trip from there with us. There could be a few more mates joining us from Apollo Bay or Lorne on the final leg.


I hope to catch up with fiends in Bendalong, Nowra, Newcastle, Bangalow, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Derby, Port Hedland, Perth, Albany, Port Lincoln and Adelaide.


Max wanted to come but he has responsibilities in Melbourne.



THE GEAR

The GS is capable of carrying all the gear I will need. In addition to the top box, panniers and tank bag, I will have two swag style bags strapped on. I will be taking a tent and sleeping bag in case I get caught out for a night or two, or choose to sleep under the stars somewhere. If I head out on the dirt in the Gulf country or W.A. I will carry a fair amount of water, extra fuel for the bike, and some dried food sufficient for a couple of days.


A Garmin Zumo 550 GPS is hardwired to the bike and mounted on the handlebars. I will be carrying paper maps for all states and the NT, and a couple of more detailed maps for the dirt road options. The GPS is a wonderful gadget, but it will be the secondary source of navigation guidance to the maps and odometer. I will also have a hand held compass on board.


I will be carrying an emergency beacon (PLB) which is registered with the Australian Maritime Safety Authority to assist search and rescue response in the event of a life threatening emergency. The location accuracy is 120 metres. While transmitting, it has a bright strobe light which flashes. Probably useful for reading Haiku while awaiting rescue. Upon activation of the beacon the signal is received by AMSA within minutes. On remote legs, I will carry the PLB in a pocket on my jacket.


I will also be carrying a SPOT satellite GPS messenger. This is a new gadget which uses the existing GPS technology. If interested to find out more, go to http://www.findmespot.com/. It’s a small device which will fit in the palm of my hand, and is powered by three lithium AAA batteries. Its main use is to send a signal including a pre-worded message (either by email or SMS) via satellite to contacts chosen in advance by me. Typical use will involve sending an ‘All OK’ message to family each night I am out of mobile range. It also has a ‘Help’ function, for emergencies which are not life threatening. I intend to use this to summon the BMW Roadside Assist service or the nearest bloke with a truck (these could turn out to be one and the same) in the event that the bike ceases to be rideable.


The recipient of a SPOT message will get information including the latitude and longitude of my location, a link to a Google Earth map with my exact location and the nearest settlement pinpointed, together with the date and time the message was sent. The device works anywhere on the face of the earth.


My helmet has mounted in it two speakers and a mike, with wireless bluetooth connection to my iPhone and the GPS. It all operates hands free.


The trusty Nikon D70S digital SLR camera will be on board, and will hopefully provide a few good snaps. Yes, many photos will have the motorbike in them. This is a motorbike trip. I’ll have to learn to take photos without taking my helmet off, otherwise constant removal and replacement of the helmet will see me returning with ears like Chopper’s.


My iPhone will be used mainly for listening to music of an evening, and for the occasional game of Flight Control (only on straight roads). I expect to be out of mobile range for most of the trip.



THE BIKE (only of interest to bike riders)

I bought the GS new in late 2008, and started riding it in January 2009, when the capacity restriction on my new motorbike licence expired.


Prior to that I owned a Honda VTR 250 for a year and clocked 25,000kms mostly on weekend trips. Last year on the GS I did a solo trip to Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges in S.A., and another solo trip up the Barry Way from Buchan to Jindabyne. Many kms have been logged on the Great Ocean Road. I have also had three excellent days of tuition at Phillip Island racetrack doing levels 1-3 of the cornering course run by the California Superbike School. To complete my preparation I recently lined up for a couple of hours one-on-one tuition in off-road riding techniques for the GS.


I would like to deny that I owned a 250cc scooter in 2007. I admit that I own a 50cc bike with a motor, used for checking the surf and for trips to the bakery and newsagent in Apollo Bay.


The GS will have 50,000kms on the clock on 17 July when the trip commences. It will need one service on the way around, probably at Perth. It will need new tyres at various points during the trip.  Hopefully, it will not need anything else.


It is powered by an air (and oil) cooled four stroke engine, with two horizontally opposed cylinders. The engine will develop 105bhp (78 kW). It redlines at 8,000 RPM. The engine capacity is just under 1.2 litres. The bike is shaft driven.


It has electronic suspension adjustment, ABS and an automatic traction control system. These combine to produce a safe and very comfortable ride in all conditions.


The tyre pressures (adjusted for temperature) can be read at any time on a display which is integrated in the bike instrument cluster. I will receive an amber then red light warning if tyre pressure drops. I have had a puncture at highway speed on the GS and it is nice to get a warning when the pressure drops the first couple of psi, rather than when the deflated tyre parts company with the rim on a corner. Tyre pressures on bitumen will be 36psi in the front and 42 in the back. On dirt, 25 psi front and back. I will be carrying a puncture repair kit, and enough tools to remove either wheel.


The fuel tank holds 20 litres, which depending on the manner in which the throttle is managed, can deliver as much as 400kms, or as little as 275kms, but typically around 300kms. To achieve 400kms would require uncommon restraint and speeds which would permit long conversations with pushbike riders. I will be carrying 20 litres of extra fuel on the remote sections.


The bike with full fuel weighs 229kg. It can carry an additional 211kg payload (rider and luggage). The luggage has to be carefully distributed to avoid doing the whole trip with the front wheel in the air.

After-market extras on the bike include a larger side-stand foot (for parking on soft soil and sand), a poor man's cruise control (friction device on throttle twist grip), an oil cooler protector, and wider foot rests to make standing up on rough roads more tolerable. 


The bike is a delight to ride, and at speed it is very nimble and agile. It has wonderful acceleration up to 100kph, and some say, beyond. I can think of no better machine for the planned trip.